Been back a fortnight though it seems longer. Though not, as some have suggested, back to "reality". Hate to be picky but only returned to our reality.
Plenty of memories stored away: the kindnesses of Pedro and Mirella during our stay; their little boy Jordan teasing Susan with a baby bird he`d found - until he realised, to his amazement, that she really was scared; the dozens of children we met and worked with; the turtles swimming round our boat off the Isla de la Plata; the beach on our last evening at Puerto Lopez; Arturo`s big smile; humming birds around the breakfast table; Mindo Lava Cake (never did explain - a kind of fantastic chocolate "mousse").......could go on and on.
And of course there`s Paolo Santo: light a small piece and the scent takes you straight back.
Meanwhile we`ll do our best to maintain contact and to that end will be investigating the notion of "twinning" libraries as well as the logistics of sending more books out....not to mention trying to encourage as many other people as possible to go out and see for themselves. Go on. Why not? :)
Sunday 19 October 2014
Wednesday 1 October 2014
Wednesday 1.10.2014
Last day in Mindo....had to have at least one swim in the river that runs alongside the hostel so an early morning dip seemed the thing, the water looking very inviting with the sun shining and a blue sky overhead.....
......and it was absolutely baltic!! Nevertheless it was idyllic - even if it took me a couple of hours to thaw out......
A stroll in the sun, a bit of souvenir shopping, a couple of coffees (well alright - and a brownie but only one between the two of us) at The Beehive on Mindo`s main drag, a desultory attempt to find a butterfly and orchid garden...but hey look it`s lunchtime...another time maybe.
This little town has been such a delight to wander around with its mix of idiosyncratic buildings,
exotic blooms,
butterflies, humming birds - oh, yes, and the Jesus Christ lizard (I kid you not) that Susan spotted doing its special thing this morning.*
And, a bit like Puerto Lopez,it`s the laid back atmosphere that really makes it special: it may be an up and coming destination for stressed out Quito-ites as well as foreign tourists but for now at least it retains its own special character and we`ll be very sad to leave.
Which is what we must do tomorrow morning so this is probably the last post from Ecuador but there yet may be room for a few more reflections - and pics - once we`re back.
For now though, adios Ecuador.........
*http://www.bbc.co.uk/nature/life/Brown_basilisk
A stroll in the sun, a bit of souvenir shopping, a couple of coffees (well alright - and a brownie but only one between the two of us) at The Beehive on Mindo`s main drag, a desultory attempt to find a butterfly and orchid garden...but hey look it`s lunchtime...another time maybe.
This little town has been such a delight to wander around with its mix of idiosyncratic buildings,
exotic blooms,
butterflies, humming birds - oh, yes, and the Jesus Christ lizard (I kid you not) that Susan spotted doing its special thing this morning.*
And, a bit like Puerto Lopez,it`s the laid back atmosphere that really makes it special: it may be an up and coming destination for stressed out Quito-ites as well as foreign tourists but for now at least it retains its own special character and we`ll be very sad to leave.
Which is what we must do tomorrow morning so this is probably the last post from Ecuador but there yet may be room for a few more reflections - and pics - once we`re back.
For now though, adios Ecuador.........
*http://www.bbc.co.uk/nature/life/Brown_basilisk
Tuesday 30 September 2014
Tuesday 30.09.2014
After two days of glorious, guilt-free, self-indulgent laziness (for which it turns out Mindo and in particular this hostel are perfect)we felt maybe we should do something a bit more energetic and fortunately a fellow traveller was up for a visit to the local "cascadas" and suggested we shared a taxi to get there so that spurred us on to get going - especially as he kindly ordered the taxi!
It was the perfect excursion: a ride up to the "tarabita" which translates as cable car though that makes it sound grander than the metal cage on a wire which it turned out to be.
However it zoomed confidently across the tops of the trees in an exhilarating swoop that only lasted minutes but gave fantastic views across the forest
and down into ravine.
Then it was a trek through the forest
and arrival after a few detours at one of the bigger cascadas - time to cool the feet and enjoy the spectacle.
And after all that activity - not to mention the long slog back up to the tarabita, more swinging across the trees
and another bone-rattling ride down the hill in the back of the "taxi"
(the only way to travel...apart from a tuk-tuk)
we felt perfectly entitled to visit the chocolate factory again, not for Mindo Lava Cake this time (of which more later) but for three cups each of good strong coffee, a sandwich and some chips. As we have felt forced to remark on several occasions in the last few days...it`s a hard life.
It was the perfect excursion: a ride up to the "tarabita" which translates as cable car though that makes it sound grander than the metal cage on a wire which it turned out to be.
However it zoomed confidently across the tops of the trees in an exhilarating swoop that only lasted minutes but gave fantastic views across the forest
and down into ravine.
Then it was a trek through the forest
and arrival after a few detours at one of the bigger cascadas - time to cool the feet and enjoy the spectacle.
And after all that activity - not to mention the long slog back up to the tarabita, more swinging across the trees
and another bone-rattling ride down the hill in the back of the "taxi"
we felt perfectly entitled to visit the chocolate factory again, not for Mindo Lava Cake this time (of which more later) but for three cups each of good strong coffee, a sandwich and some chips. As we have felt forced to remark on several occasions in the last few days...it`s a hard life.
Sunday 28 September 2014
Sunday 28.09.2014
It seems we may have died and gone to a small piece of someone`s heaven or maybe with a little bit of time travel (two taxi rides and a plane hop) we`ve arrived on a different planet.
It began in the dark at 4.30 on another warm, damp morning in Puerto Lopez as Pedro and Mirella who look after the Book Bus house (and the volunteers!) waved us off and we began the journey to Manta, glad we`d opted for a taxi rather than a trek to the bus station as somehow our bags are still heavy, despite leaving books and pencils and stickers. Might be something to do with the souvenir shopping maybe.....
It was light as we got to Manta - where the air was suddenly much drier and we realised just how humid Puerto Lopez had been - and with the minimum of fuss boarded the plane for Quito......
...a regular service people seem to use like we might use the bus from Inverurie to Aberdeen (we met someone who was off to the dentist). However, it turned out to have rather more spectacular views.
We`d hardly had time to fasten our seat belts before some serious mountains hove into view
and then the big one....
....the "snow-capped, perfectly symmetrical cone of Volcan Cotopaxi". The Rough Guide also informs us that at 5897 metres Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world "it`s also one of Ecuador`s most destructive, with at least ten major disruptions since 1742 (though) fairly quiet since it`s last burst of activity in 1904, and today Cotopaxi is the most popular climb in Ecuador."
From the plane window it was quite simply awesome in the true sense of the word.
Then it was back to earth (not with a bump - very smooth landing) straight into another taxi (a process organised incredibly easily at the airport), quickly leaving traffic-clogged Quito behind
and watching as the landscape changed from dusty to green
to the lush surroundings of Mindo,where the cloud that makes it so hangs permanently over the forest
and Susan has decided that humming-birds don`t really count as birds at all ......I think we`re going to like it here. :)
It began in the dark at 4.30 on another warm, damp morning in Puerto Lopez as Pedro and Mirella who look after the Book Bus house (and the volunteers!) waved us off and we began the journey to Manta, glad we`d opted for a taxi rather than a trek to the bus station as somehow our bags are still heavy, despite leaving books and pencils and stickers. Might be something to do with the souvenir shopping maybe.....
It was light as we got to Manta - where the air was suddenly much drier and we realised just how humid Puerto Lopez had been - and with the minimum of fuss boarded the plane for Quito......
...a regular service people seem to use like we might use the bus from Inverurie to Aberdeen (we met someone who was off to the dentist). However, it turned out to have rather more spectacular views.
We`d hardly had time to fasten our seat belts before some serious mountains hove into view
and then the big one....
....the "snow-capped, perfectly symmetrical cone of Volcan Cotopaxi". The Rough Guide also informs us that at 5897 metres Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world "it`s also one of Ecuador`s most destructive, with at least ten major disruptions since 1742 (though) fairly quiet since it`s last burst of activity in 1904, and today Cotopaxi is the most popular climb in Ecuador."
From the plane window it was quite simply awesome in the true sense of the word.
Then it was back to earth (not with a bump - very smooth landing) straight into another taxi (a process organised incredibly easily at the airport), quickly leaving traffic-clogged Quito behind
and watching as the landscape changed from dusty to green
to the lush surroundings of Mindo,where the cloud that makes it so hangs permanently over the forest
and Susan has decided that humming-birds don`t really count as birds at all ......I think we`re going to like it here. :)
Friday 26 September 2014
Friday 26.09.2014
It was a bit hard to fathom exactly what was going on at the Fish Fest though the large statue of the Virgin Mary surrounded by candles was a bit of a clue. When we arrived under the lights and bunting the band were in full swing and pieces of cake and sweets were being handed round. Arturo explained it was essentially a thanksgiving for the fish industry which is such a vital part of the local community and added it would go on most of the night and there`d be lots of drinking. The previous night we`d heard fireworks close by which was also part of the celebrations.
It was a colourful, exuberant event but wisely we headed home having watched for a while....taking one of the tuk-tuks up the hill out of town - a mode of transport neither of us have tired of yet.
But flexibility is the Bus Book watchword and though we thought we`d be up early and heading out for school in the morning, turned out there were more exams in progress so we weren`t needed.
However, there`s always something to do. Arturo went off early to make contact with some new schools and we rolled up our sleeves and got stuck into a bit of book sorting (our colleagues at work would have felt right at home!) One of the important plans for development of the BB is to begin establishing libraries and here in Puerto Lopez, the BB house offers the perfect small space to make a start and introduce children to a concept which is not necessarily familiar to them.
So we sorted and cleaned and made piles of different sorts of books and by the end of the morning had a potential "reading corner" for young readers.
We measured up for some shelving to display the books
and with that and maybe a few little chairs it could soon be up and running. In another corner we put non-fiction and reading for older readers as well as leaving some space for games and colouring activities
and with a little judicious furniture rearrangement we even managed to set a little "office" space for Arturo
Very small acorns and all that but the potential is limitless and Arturo has all sorts of plans for reading groups, storytimes and even maybe drama groups as well as involving teachers and parents.
Halfway through the morning we took a stroll into town
in search of book cleaning materials (and just maybe some coffee...) It was tempting to buy all sorts of things for the library (it really felt like an exciting thing to have been in at the beginning of) but we settled on some brightly coloured, cut-outs of butterflies, ladybirds and trucks for the walls as our contribution.
And suddenly and quite unbelievably we`ve arrived at our last day here! This second week has absolutely flashed by.
We were back at the school at Agua Blanca and realised straight away something special was happening as the children were even more smartly turned out than usual with ties for most of the boysand neckties for the girls. Turns out (more flexibility!) that a ceremony of allegiance was to take place so our time with the children was limited.
However the first big group went well, more stories, games, "sopa da letres", masks and "serpientes"
though there`s always the hazard with the latter that you`ll get attacked and have to feign serious poisoning.
The ceremony went off without a hitch
before it was time to wander home for lunch with a pal.
And all too soon we were on our way back to the house having parted company with Arturo who was taking a bus in the opposite direction. He has been great to work with and we will definitely be keeping in touch and look forward to watching all his projects come to fruition here and maybe in the future welcoming him to Scotland.
For now though it`s Adios and buen viaje....
...and for us it`s one last coffee, crepe and beer at the peerless Restaurante Patacon and then up at silly o`clock tomorrow morning for the journey to Mindo, the last stop on our amazing trip. :)
It was a colourful, exuberant event but wisely we headed home having watched for a while....taking one of the tuk-tuks up the hill out of town - a mode of transport neither of us have tired of yet.
But flexibility is the Bus Book watchword and though we thought we`d be up early and heading out for school in the morning, turned out there were more exams in progress so we weren`t needed.
However, there`s always something to do. Arturo went off early to make contact with some new schools and we rolled up our sleeves and got stuck into a bit of book sorting (our colleagues at work would have felt right at home!) One of the important plans for development of the BB is to begin establishing libraries and here in Puerto Lopez, the BB house offers the perfect small space to make a start and introduce children to a concept which is not necessarily familiar to them.
So we sorted and cleaned and made piles of different sorts of books and by the end of the morning had a potential "reading corner" for young readers.
We measured up for some shelving to display the books
and with that and maybe a few little chairs it could soon be up and running. In another corner we put non-fiction and reading for older readers as well as leaving some space for games and colouring activities
and with a little judicious furniture rearrangement we even managed to set a little "office" space for Arturo
Very small acorns and all that but the potential is limitless and Arturo has all sorts of plans for reading groups, storytimes and even maybe drama groups as well as involving teachers and parents.
Halfway through the morning we took a stroll into town
in search of book cleaning materials (and just maybe some coffee...) It was tempting to buy all sorts of things for the library (it really felt like an exciting thing to have been in at the beginning of) but we settled on some brightly coloured, cut-outs of butterflies, ladybirds and trucks for the walls as our contribution.
And suddenly and quite unbelievably we`ve arrived at our last day here! This second week has absolutely flashed by.
We were back at the school at Agua Blanca and realised straight away something special was happening as the children were even more smartly turned out than usual with ties for most of the boysand neckties for the girls. Turns out (more flexibility!) that a ceremony of allegiance was to take place so our time with the children was limited.
However the first big group went well, more stories, games, "sopa da letres", masks and "serpientes"
though there`s always the hazard with the latter that you`ll get attacked and have to feign serious poisoning.
The ceremony went off without a hitch
before it was time to wander home for lunch with a pal.
And all too soon we were on our way back to the house having parted company with Arturo who was taking a bus in the opposite direction. He has been great to work with and we will definitely be keeping in touch and look forward to watching all his projects come to fruition here and maybe in the future welcoming him to Scotland.
For now though it`s Adios and buen viaje....
...and for us it`s one last coffee, crepe and beer at the peerless Restaurante Patacon and then up at silly o`clock tomorrow morning for the journey to Mindo, the last stop on our amazing trip. :)
Wednesday 24 September 2014
Wednesday 24.09.2014
So the forest......it`s dry forest at sea level, comprising, as The Rough Guide has it:
"scorched-looking trees and shrubs adapted to scarce water supplies and saline soils, including many different cactuses.....and the highly fragrant palo santo trees, whose bark is burned as incense in churches." We`ve come to recognize that scent which is also reputed to deter mosquitoes. If it turned out to deter midges and could be grown in Scotland someone would make a fortune.
But the upshot is that the landscape at this level, especially in the dry season, appears lifeless, the grey only leavened by the cactus which twine between and around the trees
or an occasional flash of colour that almost looks out of place
This is all in stark contrast to the quite sudden change as you climb a few hundred metres into the hills and the coastal cloudforest: much lusher and greener, full of the kind of exotic looking plants we try and grow in pots at home but here can be seen in all their glory, not least in many of the schools which seem to take great pride in cultivating their native plants.
The Isla de Plata is covered in dry forest but first is the boat ride to get there. It was explained we needed to keep the weight of passengers towards the back so the boat could aqua-plane properly (!) and then it was much craning of necks to catch a glimpse of whales. And we did! First it was dolphins and then the huge bulk of whales, including one with a baby rolling in and out of the swell. The motion of the boat made it hard to take pictures but in any case it was just one of those experiences to savour rather than try and record especially as this is the end of the whale-watching season and we were lucky to get a glimpse of these awesome creatures.
Almost as exciting was to be greeted on our arrival by giant turtles swimming lazily round and round the boat. Then it was a quick jump down into the water as,Fernando,one of the crew hung on to the boat for dear life to prevent it drifting away from the beach.A brief chat on the dos and don`ts and we were off on one of the strangest walks I`ve ever experienced, following winding paths through the dessicated forest, kicking up the dusty grey soil and at every turn stumbling almost literally on some of the strange indigenous birds,
or the occasional incongruous looking flower,
taking in the breathtaking views and enjoying the tranquility.
There was a chance to snorkel for the dedicated (not us I should say) and then a spine-cracking race back to Puerto Lopez,
the sea distinctly choppier, the stomach slightly less happy but altogether an unforgettable experience.
And today we have made up for all that leisure time by working flat out this morning for about four and a half hours non-stop with groups of excitable children shouting cha-cha-cha at the tops of their voices, playing games and making serpents and lion masks for all they were worth. The animal word searches - or letter soup as they are known here - went down well too.
So after a couple of beers just now we`re off to investigate the Fish Fest tonight: follow that band!
"scorched-looking trees and shrubs adapted to scarce water supplies and saline soils, including many different cactuses.....and the highly fragrant palo santo trees, whose bark is burned as incense in churches." We`ve come to recognize that scent which is also reputed to deter mosquitoes. If it turned out to deter midges and could be grown in Scotland someone would make a fortune.
But the upshot is that the landscape at this level, especially in the dry season, appears lifeless, the grey only leavened by the cactus which twine between and around the trees
or an occasional flash of colour that almost looks out of place
This is all in stark contrast to the quite sudden change as you climb a few hundred metres into the hills and the coastal cloudforest: much lusher and greener, full of the kind of exotic looking plants we try and grow in pots at home but here can be seen in all their glory, not least in many of the schools which seem to take great pride in cultivating their native plants.
The Isla de Plata is covered in dry forest but first is the boat ride to get there. It was explained we needed to keep the weight of passengers towards the back so the boat could aqua-plane properly (!) and then it was much craning of necks to catch a glimpse of whales. And we did! First it was dolphins and then the huge bulk of whales, including one with a baby rolling in and out of the swell. The motion of the boat made it hard to take pictures but in any case it was just one of those experiences to savour rather than try and record especially as this is the end of the whale-watching season and we were lucky to get a glimpse of these awesome creatures.
Almost as exciting was to be greeted on our arrival by giant turtles swimming lazily round and round the boat. Then it was a quick jump down into the water as,Fernando,one of the crew hung on to the boat for dear life to prevent it drifting away from the beach.A brief chat on the dos and don`ts and we were off on one of the strangest walks I`ve ever experienced, following winding paths through the dessicated forest, kicking up the dusty grey soil and at every turn stumbling almost literally on some of the strange indigenous birds,
or the occasional incongruous looking flower,
taking in the breathtaking views and enjoying the tranquility.
There was a chance to snorkel for the dedicated (not us I should say) and then a spine-cracking race back to Puerto Lopez,
the sea distinctly choppier, the stomach slightly less happy but altogether an unforgettable experience.
And today we have made up for all that leisure time by working flat out this morning for about four and a half hours non-stop with groups of excitable children shouting cha-cha-cha at the tops of their voices, playing games and making serpents and lion masks for all they were worth. The animal word searches - or letter soup as they are known here - went down well too.
So after a couple of beers just now we`re off to investigate the Fish Fest tonight: follow that band!
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